Gaustatoppen and Gaustabanen with Kids: Norway's Most Unusual Mountain Experience

We had two days in the Gausta area, and we had originally planned to go up Gaustatoppen mountain on our first day, but we looked at the wind speed at the summit and so decided against it and hiked Ørnenipa instead (even though it was still a bit windy).

The second day the wind had died down so we took the funicular up to the top of Gaustatoppen instead of hiking. This turned out to be the right decision for several reasons, including the fact that it is one of the most unusual transport experiences I have ever had. It is literally a cable car inside a mountain. It was built in secret for the Norwegian military during the Cold War and takes you to the top of one of the highest peaks in Southern Norway.

This post covers both the Gaustabanen funicular and the Ørnenipa hike we did the day before. If you are spending time in this area with young children, both are highly worth doing and they work perfectly together as a two day combination.

Where Is Gaustatoppen?

Gaustatoppen is a spectacular mountain in the Telemark region of Southern Norway, located about a three hour drive from Oslo. It stands at 1,883 metres, making it the highest mountain in the Telemark province. On a clear day, you can actually see roughly one sixth of the entire country from the summit. The nearest town is Rjukan, which is about a 10 minute drive from the lower Gaustabanen station.

If you are doing the classic Oslo to Bergen road trip, Gausta sits naturally on the route heading south of Oslo. It makes an ideal stop for two nights before continuing west towards Røldal and Trolltunga.

Day One: Ørnenipa Hike

Ørnenipa is a three to five hour hike through the mountains directly opposite to Gaustatoppen and you start the trail at Gaustablikk. There is parking right next to Den Lykkelige Sportsmann at the trailhead. The path begins easily, following the edge of a lake before climbing gently through the woods. There is one proper steep section near the start, but after that the terrain is largely flat through open rugged mountain. Gaustatoppen sits beautifully above the skyline to your right for most of the route.

We brought both a back carrier and a sling for our toddler and used both, but the trail was gentle enough in the flat sections that she could walk herself for long stretches. We definitely made the most progress during her nap, as we could move at a proper adult pace rather than waiting for her to crouch down and examine every interesting rock. The total route takes around three to five hours, but this stretches with a young child and frequent stops. Towards the end, it did get too windy for comfort even in the sheltered section between the mountains, so we turned back slightly before completing the full route.

Our day ended at the floating sauna at Gaustablikk Mountain Resort, which sits right on the lake with Gaustatoppen directly behind it. This was probably the most scenic sauna experience of my entire life. There are actually two wooden saunas moored right on the calm waters of Lake Kvitåvatn, and the massive windows give you a completely unobstructed view of the mountain peak while you warm up.

If you want to experience this, you need to book it in advance. You can easily reserve a private time slot online directly through the main Gausta website, and then you simply pop into the Gaustablikk Fjellresort hotel reception to pick up your access keys. The saunas hold up to ten people and feature a small changing room, alongside a wooden ladder leading straight down into the lake for a refreshing swim.

Day Two: The Gaustabanen Funicular

What Is the Gaustabanen?

The Gaustabanen is a funicular railway built deep inside Gaustatoppen mountain. There is absolutely nothing else like it in northern Europe. It was originally constructed after the Second World War when Gaustatoppen was selected by the Norwegian Armed Forces as the site of a secret NATO communication and surveillance facility. For decades, the mountain contained a classified military base inside it and the funicular was built to supply the base. When the facility was finally decommissioned, the funicular was opened to the public in 2010.

The journey actually has two stages. The first is a horizontal battery powered tram that takes you 850 metres deep into the mountain on a flat track through a carved tunnel. At the midpoint, you step out and transfer to the second vehicle. This is a steep funicular carriage on a 39 degree incline that climbs 1,045 metres straight up through the interior of the mountain to emerge near the summit. The whole journey takes about 15 to 25 minutes. The temperature inside the mountain is freezing cold throughout regardless of the season outside, so absolutely bring a warm layer even in August.

When you exit at the top, you walk through a 110 metre tunnel and emerge into daylight on the summit ridge at around 1,800 metres. The view is immediate and completely enormous.

The Experience at the Top

The summit area has several viewing platforms at different points along the ridge. On a clear day they claim you can see one sixth of Norway and there are mountains, valleys, fjords, and plateaus in every direction.

In contrast the only thing daughter was interested were the cardamom waffles from the tourist cabin. These are described as Norway's highest waffles! The cabin serves coffee, hot drinks, and simple food alongside the waffles. It is warm inside, which really matters after battling the summit wind.

Allow at least 90 minutes at the top, ideally two full hours. The ridge walk beyond the summit has the same views so whilst I did go and take a look my daughter was either warming up inside or enjoying the view whilst eating her waffle. On the way back down, the funicular runs in the exact same sequence in reverse.

Practical Details You Need to Know

• Getting there: The Gaustabanen station is on County Road 651, about 10 minutes uphill from Rjukan. Free parking is available right at the lower station.

• Tickets: A return ticket for an adult costs 595 NOK. Children aged 5 to 15 cost 300 NOK for a return. Children aged 4 and under travel completely free. Make sure you collect any free children's tickets in person at the visitor centre rather than online.  

• Operating hours: The funicular departs every 15 minutes from 9am to 6pm daily in the peak summer.

• Capacity: Each trip takes a limited number of people. On busy summer days, particularly in July and August, queues can quickly build at the lower station. Arriving early before 10am significantly reduces your waiting time.

• What to wear: It is incredibly cold and windy at the summit regardless of what the weather is like in the valley below. Bring a proper warm layer and a windproof jacket for every member of the family. On a beautiful clear August day in the valley, the summit can still be close to freezing.

• Prams: Leave your pram at the lower station or in the car. The funicular is totally manageable without one, and the summit terrain is not pram accessible.

  
  

After Gaustatoppen: Lake Totak and the Drive to Røldal

We left Gaustabanen mid morning and drove west towards Røldal, which was our next stop on the road trip. The drive took about three hours, but we stopped several times because the scenery made it impossible not to.

The best stop was Lake Totak just before the village of Vå. There is a small beach with a wooden jetty, and the lake is calm enough for a quick swim. The water is incredibly cold. This is Norway in summer at altitude, so "refreshing" is the polite word for it! Our daughter splashed in the shallows while the adults took the cold plunge!

We also stopped for dinner in Haukeli, a small village with a restaurant and a supermarket, and again at Lake Kjelavtn to admire the views and let our daughter run off some energy before the last stretch of driving.

Where to Stay Near Gaustatoppen

Gaustablikk Fjellresort (prices from around £150 per night)

Best for: Families looking for fantastic on site amenities to keep everyone entertained no matter the weather.

This is a brilliant hotel right on the mountain if you want more facilities than a self catering stay. It features a great indoor pool, a dedicated playroom for the kids, and those incredible floating saunas on the lake. You get panoramic views of Gaustatoppen from the restaurant, meaning you can just wake up, grab a massive buffet breakfast to fuel the children, and head straight out onto the trails. Having an indoor pool is a huge bonus for toddlers who still need to burn off energy when the mountain winds are simply too strong for a family hike.

3 Bedroom Apartment by Gaustatoppen (prices from around £180 per night)

Best for: Families who want plenty of space to unpack, cook their own toddler friendly meals, and be completely self sufficient.

This apartment is incredibly spacious, very well equipped, and sits right by the Gaustablikk trailhead and that beautiful floating sauna. Having a full kitchen and a proper living room to relax in after a long day of hiking makes a massive difference when you are travelling with a toddler. It means you do not have to keep them confined to a single hotel bedroom, and the extra floor space is an absolute lifesaver for energetic children who just want to play with their toys on the rug while you figure out dinner.

Villa Rjukan (prices from around £200 per night)

Best for: Parents who prefer the convenience of being close to town facilities so you can easily pop out for dinner and supplies.

If you prefer to be near a town, this hotel is located right down in Rjukan and is only a ten minute drive from the lower Gaustabanen station. It is a brilliant mid range choice if you want easy access to local restaurants, supermarkets, and the fascinating museums down in the valley without having to cook every single night. The location takes the stress out of feeding a hungry family, as you can easily pick up familiar snacks for picky eaters or grab a quick dinner out after a freezing day on the mountain peaks.

Kvitåvatn Fjellhytter (prices from around £200 per night)

Best for: Those wanting a truly authentic, cosy cabin experience with loads of safe outdoor space right on your doorstep.

For a really authentic Norwegian cabin experience, these traditional wooden lodges sit right on the edge of the lake near the hiking trails. They offer spectacular views of the mountain and give your kids plenty of outdoor space to run around safely without worrying about busy roads. They are fairly basic but incredibly cosy, and lighting a real fire after a freezing day on the summit is exactly what a family mountain holiday is all about. There is something truly magical about bundling the kids up in their blankets and watching the sun set over the water right from your own private wooden porch.

Why You Should Include This on Your Road Trip

You do not generally expect a family holiday to involve a classified NATO military base, but the Gaustabanen ended up being a massive highlight of our time in Norway. Riding a cable car directly through the dark interior of a solid mountain feels completely bizarre. It is freezing cold and steeped in Cold War history, which makes the contrast of finally stepping out onto the summit even more dramatic. You emerge from the dark tunnel, look out over a sixth of the entire country, and suddenly the whole crazy journey makes perfect sense.

Our daughter's main takeaway from the whole day was the cardamom waffles. To be completely fair to her, as well as holding the impressive title of Norway's highest waffles, they are also absolutely delicious!

For our full Norway road trip itinerary from Oslo to Bergen, read our Norway Road Trip: The Perfect Scandinavian Adventure with Kids. For what to do at the end of the road trip, our Top Things to Do in Bergen with a Toddler guide covers everything from the fjord cruise to Mount Fløyen!