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Best Places to Stay on the Albanian Riviera with Kids: Ksamil, Sarandë, Himarë & Gjirokastër

  • Writer: minna
    minna
  • 7 hours ago
  • 7 min read

If you're looking for a family holiday that combines beautiful beaches, ancient history, mountains, and food that won't disappoint (all at a fraction of the cost of comparable destinations in Greece or Croatia) then the Albanian Riviera is for you.


View of porto palermo beach

The Albanian Riviera runs roughly from Sarandë and Ksamil in the south up through Himarë and Dhermi toward Vlorë in the north. Add the UNESCO heritage town of Gjirokastër inland, and you have a region that offers everything from beach days and boat trips to castle walks and Ottoman architecture, all within easy driving distance of each other.


In this post, I'm listing family-friendly places to stay in the four destinations we visited in Southern Albania: Ksamil, Sarandë, Himarë and Gjirokastër. If you're planning a trip to Albania and want tips on how to plan your itinerary, make sure to check out my full travel guide: 7-day Albania road trip itinerary with a toddler.


Practical Logistics: What You Need to Know Before You Go


When to go: If you're travelling with young kids, I would strongly recommend shoulder season (April-May, September-October). We went at the end of September/early October and it was a really good time to go - temperatures around 30 degrees, quieter beaches and none of the rowdy summer party scene that the coast is apparently known for in July and August.


One important note on beaches: Most beaches along the Albanian Riviera are pebble rather than sand, so pack beach shoes for everyone, including kids. Several beaches also have a fairly immediate drop-off close to the shore, which is worth keeping in mind if you're swimming with little ones.


How to get to the Albanian riviera: Albania is quite a small country, so if you're planning on hiring a car, it's easy to access from the capital of Tirana, which is what we did. It's about a 4-5 hour drive, but you also have places like Berat and Apollonia on the way which are worth visiting if you have the time. If you are only planning on visiting the riviera in the south, then Corfu (Greece) is the closest airport, with ferries going across to Sarandë.


Toddler on Dhermi beach, Albania

Ksamil


Ksamil is definitely one of the most scenic spots on the Albanian Riviera. The water is calm and turquoise, and the whole place has a laid-back energy that makes it easy to spend a full day doing absolutely nothing useful. As it's the most popular spot on the coast, it does get busy in summer, but when we went in early October we had the beach pretty much all to ourselves. Even in peak season, the accommodation options here are good value compared to similarly busy places in countries like Greece or Croatia.


toddler playing in ksamil beach


Where to Stay in Ksamil


1. Vasiliu Boutique Hotel Ksamil (from around £50/night)


A family-run 4 star hotel set a short walk from Paradise Beach and Ksamil Beach 9, with Lori Beach just 250 metres away. The rooms are spacious, modern, and some units include a kitchen. There's a children's playground on site, free private parking, a terrace with BBQ, and breakfast is included. Worth knowing: cots and cribs are not available here, so if your kids are still in that stage, you'd need to bring your own travel cot.


2. Limni Resort (from around £90/night)


A boutique resort with 11-13 suites set slightly outside the main Ksamil bustle, about 8-10 minutes' flat walk to the beach. The pool is large, well-maintained, with a poolside bar, and there is a separate the kids pool. Family rooms include balconies with garden, pool or lake views, and some units have a kitchen with oven, microwave and hob. Cribs are available on request (subject to availability).


3. Arameras Resort (from around £180/night)


We were recommended to stay here by our friends who absolutely raved about this place - the resort has a private beach and gorgeous sea views from the infinity pool. Sadly we had already booked our accommodation for the dates we were here, but our friends loved everything about this place from the modern, comfortable rooms to the warm and welcoming staff (and of course the gorgeous infinity pool!). You can choose villas with either a seas front or garden view and I'd definitely recommend the small upgrade for the seafront view!


Sarandë


Sarandë is the biggest town in the area, and for that reason alone it makes a very practical base. It has that classic European beach promenade feel with palm trees, seafood restaurants right on the water and a lively harbour, and from here you can easily day-trip to Ksamil (20 minutes), Butrint, the Blue Eye natural spring, and further up the coast toward Himarë.


family looking at a view of blue eye albania

If you're travelling with small children Sarandë is extremely hilly, so pushing a pram around involves quite a bit of uphill work. In summer, the beach clubs pump music until late into the night (we were there off-season and didn't experience this, but it's worth factoring in when choosing where to stay). I would recommend somewhere off the main strip, but still close to the beach to avoid stairs/hills.


Where to Stay in Sarandë


1. Kosta Apartments (from around £50/night)


This is where we stayed and the apartment has a fully equipped kitchen and a sea-view balcony (views all the way to Corfu on a clear day!), and free private parking, which in Sarandë is not a given. The place was spotlessly clean, modern, and in a quiet area a short (but hilly) walk from the promenade and beach. The one thing to note: no cots or cribs, and there's no lift so you'll have to carry everything up. If you want to be on the beach and not have to navigate the hills then the other options below might be better for you.



2. Hotel Magllara (from around £90/night)


A small 4 star hotel right on the promenade, about a three-minute walk from the main public beach. Every room has a sea-view balcony, and breakfast is served on a terrace overlooking the water. Family rooms are available, cots are free for children under four (subject to availability), and children under 11 stay free using an extra bed. As its right on the water it means that you won't need to deal with the hills when getting to/from the beach.


3. Santa Quaranta Premium Resort (from around £100/night)


A well-regarded 4 star resort right on the water, with its own private beach area and access to both a pool and indoor pool (which means you're not entirely at the mercy of the weather!). Spacious family rooms, spa facilities, playground and a good restaurant on site.


Himarë


Himarë was my personal favourite stop on the whole Albanian Riviera. It's smaller and quieter than Sarandë, with a beautiful beach esplanade, several gorgeous bays nearby, and that relaxed quality that makes you slow down without even trying. We ate at Merkur Merkuri on the main seafront and had fresh grilled fish that was some of the best of the trip. The pace felt very different here - less resort, more real town (at least when we went!).


Beach in Himare, Albania

Porto Palermo Beach (about 20 minutes south of Himarë) is also worth mentioning - it's a small bay sheltered from the open sea, which means the water is calmer and it tends to be quieter than the main beaches. When we were there (admittedly in windy, overcast October), we had it entirely to ourselves, apart from a very friendly Golden Retriever who kept making sure we were safe going into the water!


Where to Stay in Himarë


1. NaDim Rooms (from around £55/night)


A self-catered 1 bed apartment literally on Maracit Beach - step out of the building and you're on the shore. The balcony faces the sea and the view when you open the doors in the morning was just gorgeous! The apartment is clean and modern with a small kitchenette. Parking is not included, but the host helped us find a public carpark closeby and it's a short, flat walk into Himarë town. It's a bit cosy but does the job as a no fuss budget option giving you quick access to the beach.


View from hotel with toddler in Himare, Albania

2. Boungainvillea (from around £100/night)


Located just a few minutes’ walk from the main Himarë promenade and Livadhi beach, these traditional Albanian villas are apartments which offer a bright and spacious base that feels a step up from a standard budget stay. You get a great view of the bay and the rooms are spotlessly clean and come with handy kitchenettes.


3. Prado Luxury Hotel (from around £200/night)


A five-star hotel on Livadh Beach, about a 10-minute drive south of Himarë town. This is the most resort-style property on the Albanian Riviera for families. There's a proper outdoor pool, a private beach with loungers (included for guests free of charge), a full-service spa, a restaurant serving Italian and Mediterranean food, and family rooms and suites specifically designed for travelling with children. Cribs are available on request at an additional charge (free for children under three). As the hotel is about a 10-minute drive (or a 1-hour walk) from Himarë centre, it means you'll have to rely on taxis to get around if you don't have a car.


Gjirokastër


This is a UNESCO-listed Ottoman town built into the side of a mountain, with steep cobblestone streets, a castle and an old bazaar with artisan shops, cafes and restaurants. We only spent one night here but I wished we had stayed for longer as it's a really charming town with plenty to explore! If you're driving down from Tirana/Berat you will likely drive through here on your way to the coast.


Gjirokaster markets at night


Where to Stay in Gjirokastër


Kerculla Resort (from around £95/night)


You only need one recommendation here because this was one of the best finds of the whole trip! Kerculla is located at the top of the hill above Gjirokastër, and the views from the pool terrace and restaurant across the mountain valley, down over the castle and the old Ottoman houses and out toward the hills beyond, are just incredible.


woman looking at the view from kerculla resort in gjirokaster

The breakfast buffet is included and features home-grown produce and the staff are lovely. If you don't want to drive or walk all the way down into town, the hotel offers taxis into town (around €5 each way, which they coordinate).


View of the pool at kerculla gjirokaster

A Few Final Thoughts


Albania holds a very special place in our hearts. It's the kind of destination that feels like it's right on the edge of being discovered by mass tourism, which means right now is the time to go! The food is fresh and affordable, the people are warm and welcoming, and the combination of beaches, mountains, ancient history and Ottoman architecture means you're never short of something to see or do.


view of blue eye tsamil

If you're planning the full road trip, head over to our complete 7-day Albania itinerary with a toddler for the day-by-day breakdown including places like Tirana, Berat, Bogovë waterfall and Apollonia.



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